autumn in Hrvatsko Zagorje: castles, museums, spas and štrukli
When the sea cools down, Zagorje comes into its own. Castles, Neanderthals, thermal spas and hearty local food, not far from Zagreb.
When the sea cools down, Hrvatsko Zagorje really comes into its own. Morning mist hangs over hills covered in vineyards and little wine cottages (klijet), the castles look like postcards, and after a walk there are štrukli and warm thermal pools waiting. Zagorje is close to Zagreb, so you can see a good part of it in a weekend.
castles
- Veliki Tabor Castle near Desinić is now a museum, part of the Museums of Hrvatsko Zagorje.
- Miljana Castle, near the Sutla river, is a baroque building with several wings around a rectangular inner courtyard. It has rococo frescoes inside and was a filming location for the Croatian TV series "Ponos Ratkajevih". It's privately owned, so check in advance whether you can visit.
- Mihanović Manor in Tuhelj is now a restaurant run by Terme Tuhelj.
museums and history
- The Krapina Neanderthal Museum is part of the Museums of Hrvatsko Zagorje and a great day out for families with kids.
- Staro Selo Kumrovec is an open-air village museum with around forty restored buildings, showing life in Zagorje at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.
- The Museum of Peasant Uprisings in Gornja Stubica covers the region's peasant revolts, including the 1573 uprising led by Matija Gubec.
- Gaveznica – Kameni vrh near Lepoglava is a protected geological monument and the only preserved fossil volcano in Croatia.
spas and food
After a day on your feet, a thermal spa is a good idea. Zagorje has several, including Stubičke Toplice and Tuheljske Toplice.
For food, try štrukli (cheese pastry, made several ways here) and turkey with mlinci (baked pasta sheets). Locals drink it with gemišt, wine mixed with sparkling mineral water.
a weekend plan
- Day one: Kumrovec, Miljana and Veliki Tabor are fairly close together.
- Day two: Krapina and the Neanderthals in the morning, Gornja Stubica and a spa in the afternoon.
- For lunch, choose family restaurants and wine cottages over roadside fast food.
- Check opening hours before you set off. Museums and castles often keep shorter hours out of season, so check their official websites.
If your host is from Zagorje, ask them for their favourite wine cottage or family farm. The best places usually aren't in the guidebooks.
Sources:
Museums of Hrvatsko Zagorje – Krapina Neanderthal Museum (HR) · Veliki Tabor Castle (HR) · Museum of Peasant Uprisings (HR) · Staro Selo Kumrovec (HR) · Varaždin County Tourism – Miljana Castle (HR) · Varaždin County Nature – Gaveznica-Kameni vrh (HR) · Terme Tuhelj – Mihanović Manor restaurant · Putni Kofer – day trips in Hrvatsko Zagorje (HR)